Rover Diesel

Good to hear the end of the story, and glad it worked out ok in the end!

Like I said those Kevlar ones take an age to bed in properly!

I would highly doubt it although I'm not familiar with freelander brakes.

The freelander doesn't have the VP30 pump though (its a version of the VP37).

Checking the timing is simple enough, it doesn't need to go to a specialist. a 9.5mm drill and a 6.5mm drill are the only two "special" tools needed (unless you have the proper timing pin kit of course).

Heat is the usual solution to help them come off, that an a combination of penetrating oil.

Most people don't compression test diesels as it is a lot more complicated than testing a petrol engine (pressures are MUCH higher) What is the issue you are having? If you are going to compression test it then you can either use an adapter for the glow plugs (access is a nightmare on some plugs), o...

Are you pleased with the performance boost It makes the car so much nicer to drive in my opinion.

Sorry been away for a while on hols.

Wrapping the downpipe won't hurt, but won't gain you a lot.

Mine is wrapped but that is due to heat issues as it is a non standard downpipe to try and keep the engine bay cool.

Don't wrap cast manifolds as they often don't like it and may crack.

The ring/circlips job is simply to retain things in place before they are fitted to the car. Once on the car you shouldn't really need them. If the shaft has come out, then there is usually a reason. Either a bush or suspension issue or perhaps the inner CV joint sticking instead of sliding in and o...

Those are the two usual causes. If the light came on after moving the seat it is likely to be the seat connections.

If you've had the steering wheel off then it could be the rotary coupler.