rover 45 dt

Re: rover 45 dt

Postby nicko500s » Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:10 pm

ok i think its safe to say there is no metal washer so forget that, also there is no paper gasket either, looking at the rimmer bros diagram 16 is the main body of the oil cooler, where the line goes from the no 16 to the body (showing what part no 16 relates to) is where the o ring is fitted (the tube sticking out of the cooler) stretching it over this tube and pushing it as far up as it will go will help insure it it seated correctly when you fit the housing.
looking at the diagram the thermostat can only be fitted one way so you dont have to worry about it bieng upside down. the thing that concerns me is that you say you found the o ring so the washer and silicone wasnt there in place of the o ring but because the o ring wasnt making a seal by itself maybe?
this is why i suggested checking the mateing surfaces of the housing and the oil cooler for signs of damage (cracks or warped faces) if it all looks good just refit the o ring and see if you get any leaks.

to be honest these cars dont really suffer from over heating, you are just reading the few problems people have had on here, a few of the topics are mine relating to just one car and one problem which turned out to be simple and inexpensive once diagnosed but caused massive problems and expence because i was doing the work myself and couldnt find the problem, now i know much more about these cars and with a few mods they are alot of fun to drive, so dont be put off.
have you just got the car? did the heater blow hot air?
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Re: rover 45 dt

Postby lasthope » Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:57 pm

i mate just got car last week,drove about 12 mile back temp went up and back down no heat in car at all,so went change thermo,and the rest is history,,lol
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Re: rover 45 dt

Postby nicko500s » Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:31 pm

i gues it was a private sale and not from a garage? i suggest once you have fitted the thermostat and bled the air out of the cooling system as described earlier in the topic, you take it for test run to see if it gets hot (above 2/3 of the way up the guage) if it does listen for the radiator cooling fans so you know they work, if the temp climbs still with the fans on and the needle goes too close to the red you will have to shut it down till it cools, might be worth taking some water with you and dont go to far from home to start with.


it might be ok mate but i no what u feeling :)
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Re: rover 45 dt

Postby lasthope » Wed Nov 30, 2011 5:21 pm

i mate private sale,,ok seems i have a air lock i hope been sitting here on tic over for about 30 mins my temp in car going is going half way and its warm,cant hear fans kicking in,all pipes are hot on car apart from one that come of bottom rad into the housing i just stuck on,,its stone cold,if i take cap off expansion bottle and rev it up it starts to boil up but if on tic over its ok,,or one more thing my power steering reservoir is boiling and the pipes are hot,,its got me beat lol,,sounds like hg might me be gone hoping not
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Re: rover 45 dt

Postby E_T_V » Thu Dec 01, 2011 6:10 pm

With a cold engine, release any pressure from the cooling system and retighten the cap

Start the engine and rev the engine hard a couple of times

Turn the engine off

If there is pressure in the coolant pipes or you can hear a hiss when you release the expansion cap then you have head gasket failure.
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Re: rover 45 dt

Postby lasthope » Thu Dec 01, 2011 6:34 pm

ok i try that tomorr dude
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Re: rover 45 L series injection pump timing

Postby shreeveuke » Fri Oct 09, 2015 2:08 pm

Hi everyone. Can anybody please help me to sort this problem out.Just had a second hand head fitted to my 2004 rover 45 2 litre Diesel on the L series engine.Now the bloody thing only starts with the dreaded easy start.So everything is pointing to fuel injection pump timing possibly being out a few mill but the mechanic doesnt really have a clue about setting it up.Can anyone give a short but clear description on how this is done as I dont really want to use the easy start anymore incase the engine is damaged again. Bye the way a leaking power steering pump caused all this. e g Fan belt stripped,a chunk got into the timing belt causing the valves and pistons to meet.What a nightmare thats been !!! hope someone can help kind regards Jonathan.
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Re: rover 45 dt

Postby E_T_V » Tue Dec 06, 2016 9:54 pm

Assuming the cambelt has been put on right

1. Insert timing pin into crank (6.5mm drill will do I think)
2. Remove all the bits to access the fuel pump belt
3. Check that a drill will fit into the fuel pump pulley and into the hole behind it (9.5mm drill I think).
4. If it all slots in properly then timing is unlikely to be the fault - but I bet it won't slot in nicely.
5. Loosen 4 pulley bolts on the cam pulley
6. Rotate pump to allow pin to fit - if the slotted adjustment in the cam pulley runs out then remove the belt and fit it one tooth different (i.e. toward the other end of the slot)
7. Crank and timing pin should now both be in place at the same time
8. Tension belt (if required)
9. Tighten the 4 cam pulley bolts AFTER tensioning the belt. (This is the bit that people get wrong).

Remove pins - reassemble and then check that it starts better from cold.
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Re: rover 45 dt

Postby LinoKel » Tue Jan 02, 2018 1:42 pm

That's a great write-up, ETV. Any pointers on how tense the belt should be exactly?
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Re: rover 45 dt

Postby E_T_V » Tue Jun 12, 2018 12:09 am

On the longest run of belt you should just be able to twist the belt by 45 degrees using finger and thumb usually.
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