mgzs td diesel pump

[octoman]

hi with reference to my last thread about timing solenoid , i have now put used one in and still sounds abit like knocking but my mate who use to work on rovers said it sounds like injectors , i have loosend unions and engine faulters which i take is ok so i dont think injectors are at fault but do not know what it is, have also done egr valve as i cleaned it and then put sealant on gaskets

[octoman]

hi reference to last thread went to diesel specialist and he said it could be injectors or hydraulic lifter , he said that timing solenoid would knock all time is this right thanks

[nicko500s]

As far as I know the pump solenoid would be noisy all the time, they call it tractor syndrome or something.
As a process of elimination I would change the injectors, you can get used ones off ebay or if you want to add up to 30bhp instantly get sdi injectors from a rover 200 or 400 but not from a 25 or 45 the only other bits you would need is the copper washers.
This site has gone a bit quiet so if you want to get some advise I would recommend Mat at http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/ hes very friendly and knowledgeable and sells lots of parts for these cars, even the copper washers for the injectors.
You could also try http://forums.mg-rover.org/ scroll down to the diesel forum very good info from nice people on this site as well

Hope this helps

[octoman]

hi i will have to try injectors and washers , also someone said that it could be timing so i need to find timing pins thanks

[nicko500s]

Hi Mat sells the timing pins, actually they are just drill bits so if you have the right size you could use them?

[octoman]

hi thanks for reply yh im going to get drill bits but i darent drive car in case its something serious

[octoman]

hi with referece to last thread i have checked timing and seems to be spot on so had a look at wiring to number 1 injector and there is a couple of inner threads showing on wire could this affect car running thanks also how do you test the wire thanks

[E_T_V]

Unplug the injector sensor.

Measure the resistance between the two pins. It should be 80-120 ohms If not then it is faulty.
Then measure the resistance between each pin and the engine block. It should be infinite. If not then the screen is shorting out and it needs repair.

[octoman]

hi etv checked resistance on both wires and meter was saying 95.6 ohms , i take it this is ok also you said measure resistance btween each wire and engine block and said this should be infinate [what does this mean ] and what should it read and if that injector is ok could it still be injectors

[E_T_V]

hi etv checked resistance on both wires and meter was saying 95.6 ohms , i take it this is ok also you said measure resistance btween each wire and engine block and said this should be infinate [what does this mean ] and what should it read and if that injector is ok could it still be injectors

The resistance between each connector pin and the engine block should be very very very high - too high to measure so most multimeters will display an error. If the resistance is small (a few ohms) then there is a short circuit from that wire to the metal screen that surrounds the signal cables.

The usual test for injectors Is with the engine idling loosen each fuel union in turn. The engine note should change (go lumpy) and the idle speed slow before picking up again. When you re-tighten the union the idle speed should even out again. If there is no change then that injector is faulty. If the knocking goes away when one is loosened then that would indicate a possible faulty injector (or the fault is on that cylinder).