Rover Diesel

right just checked and the braket and plastic cap are fine.
but now i have a bigger problem, when i started the car after refitting the engine and gearbox it fired up first time & ran smoohtly no trouble.
then i put it in gear and pulled forward and put my foot on the clutch to stop the car but the cluch didnt do anything and i couldnt get it out of gear so pressed the brake pedal hard stalling the car, then it wouldnt start after that so i left it for a day with the battery disconected thinking maybe the immobiliser needed to reset or something, but its exactly the same today, the engine spins over fine but not fireing at all, i loosened the top nuts in the injectors to see if any fuel would come out when i turned it over and it did a bit. im confused and frustrated with this now there are no warning lights lit up on the dash and the alarm/ immobiliser light is out.

oops that was a bit embarrasing, friend said call AA which i did he cranked it longer than i did as i was worried about doing damage and it started eventually now seems fine, just need to source a reasonably priced master and slave cluch cylinders and find the tool (part number Rover 18G 1593) to separate the coupling on the hydrolic hose between the two cylinders. im researching how to seperate the coupling with or with out the tool as some say you can use plyers, i cant find instructions on how exactly to use the tool, apparantly its a byonet fitting?

After speaking to a few people they recommend changing both the clutch slave and master cylinders which also meens i wont need to separate the hose but would still be interested to hear how to do it.
The master cylinder looked as if it was starting to leak a little so im pretty sure this will cure it...

I believe the tool is usually included when you buy a new slave cylinder.

However you can use a set of pliers I believe to release it if you need to. You push the connector together to release it.

A rough description/diagram is shown here:
http://forums.mg-rover.org/showpost.php ... ostcount=5

I think buypartsbuy do good prices on the master/slave from people who have done it already (thankfully mine are either manual or bleedable/repairable masters and slaves!)

Thanks ETV. i think the siezed clutch arm damaged the clutch master cylinder as it was leaking a little but this was only evadent wen it was off of the car as that part is inside the car way up under the dash, although no fluid was lost from the resevoir.
You are right the tool was supplied with both the master and slave cylinders but as i bought both i didnt need to use it. thanks for the link.
For anyone interested the tool is a plastic fork thing that enables you too push the split plastic coller into the slave end of the connection which pushes a ring of metal which engages on the master end of the connector, if you find a way to push this in then you will be able to pull it apart.
I got quotes from as much as £211 To as little as £134 for both the slave and master from unipart which was the cheapest i found.

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